Friday, June 5: Erev Shabbat

Our day started at 7 AM (well, 7:30 by the time we got in the van). Kayla, David, David, Evey, and I were going to climb Tororo Rock. Tororo rock is a 1000 ft high (top is at an elevation of 4,835 ft) rocky outgrowth that is right behind Emily's home. We had to drive around to the side to begin our walk, as it is only accessible from a few directions. We started up the slope, and were met by a "guide." Tororo Rock has communications equipment on the top, and is guarded by security people. There is an official guard at the top, and unofficial ones near the bottom. You have to bri..., I mean pay them to gain access. The guide showed us to the path and led they way up the ascent. It was quite steep, and the views were amazing. There are four steel ladders to help get past some of the most treacherous parts. It was scary enough in between them. Evey lost her water, but we all made it safely to the top in about an hour's time.

There we met the real security person, who lives on top for a week at a time. He had a guest book for us to sign. Guest books are really big in Kenya and Uganda. He showed us all around the top. There is a cable car that could hold two people max, but it was broken. The generators for the communications equipment run on deisel. This is brought to the top in 20L plastic cans. One person carries two of them at a time.

We spent about thirty minutes on the top, looking around and talking and resting, and then began the descent. Immediately we were met by several men lugging two 20L plastic cans full of fuel. We allowed them to pass. I noticed there were no lids. One was stuffed with leafy branches to keep the fuel from sloshing out. Another had some plastic wrap loosly covering the opening. On the way down, we could smell the fuel at various locations and could not help getting some on our hands when we climbed down the ladders. The men overtook us on the way down. They were wearing flip flops, but pretty much ran down the slopes as if they were out for a morning jog, whereas we sat and slid carefully, holding onto whatever rocks we could find, and trying not to look below us.

When we returned to the hotel, we had breakfast and then showers (I did not use the flip flops). Emily picked us up for our day's programme. Evey and Lisa were dropped at the Tororo clinic where they planned to spend the day observing. The rest of us, along with Russel and his wife, Christine, and two of the boys, Robert N. and Alex, headed to Robert's village for tea. It was quite a ride. When we turned off the main road, we followed a footpath (in the van) for a couple of miles, taking several turns that I would never be able to remember, before we arrived at a small grouping of huts where Robert's mother and siblings live.

Robert's father died in 2003 (I think). He and his brother were living with him in Tororo. His father's wives lived many miles out in the bush (where we were now visiting). The boys stayed in their town home until their money ran out, and this is how Emily found them. There were no resources in the bush, as the uncles, who should help provide for the widows, were extorting money from them, threatening to kick them off the land. Over time, Emily was able to help Robert purchase the land to stop the extortion. As the oldest male, he has the responsibility to care for this group of people.

After tea, we headed back toward the main road, but made two stops. At the first stop we bought some pineapple and were given three jack fruits. Then we went on a little farther and stopped at another cluster of homes. This is where we say Johnson's new hut (every male must build a hut on their land when they reach a certain age or they cannot stay in their village anymore). We sat inside Johnson's new hut enjoying the smell of the fresh grass roof.

As we were leaving the village area, we passed a two story grass hut. It even had a small balconey over the front door. It looked like something tourists would visit, but there were no tourists in this area.

Next we headed for Robert A's village. We arrived, and were greeted by many children and a few adults. We went into the hut that had been prepared for us to have lunch. We sat for quite a long time. Emily fully expected this, even though we were the traditional two hours late when we arrived, lunch is often delayed even more. We passed the time listening to many of Emily's funny stories of her experiences in Uganda. As time passed, she recalled previous visits to the bush where dinner had been delayed. The host would mask the delay by bringing in dishes and saying it would not be long. Some time later they would bring the pitcher to wash hands, but just set it down. A little later another vague progress report would arrive. Finally, Emily heard the chicken squawk. Now she could judge for herself how much longer until dinner would be ready.

Lunch, which arrived after many funny stories, was good. As honored guests, we of course were served chicken (which we did not hear squawk). In addition there was rice, cabbage, broth, and a from of Ugali made from millet. Everything was good. When we finished, we returned to the Crystal Hotel to clean up for Erev Shabbat at Emily's house.

The men said prayers while the women lit candles. Then we joined together for the traditional blessings and a meal. Afterwards we played music and sang together until it was time for bed.